March 7; Agua Verde to Puerto Escondido
Because of another forecast three day blow, we decided to pull anchor after our cuppas. Agua Verde is open to the north and the forecast is for increasing winds today/tomorrow and sustained through Sunday. I have no desire to be fighting it as we did in San Everisto, so we went straight to Puerto Escondido. We do hope to come back and explore Agua Verde. Only one small whale blow and fluke sighting today. So many more islands up in this area. It is truly gorgeous. If I were to 'season' in the Baja regularly, I believe I would do it here vs. La Paz.
Puerto Escondido (hidden port) was built around 2003/4 and obviously very nice at the time. It is completely hidden by the landscape. In the time the actual port was built, they had over 100 mooring bouys. Now, not so many and very few are set up properly for use. After calling the port and verifying that we could take any bouy, and then calling again to verify what bouy we took, when we went to register we were told we have to move. The bouy we were on was for big boats only. Very elegant bathrooms/showers make you think you're in for a treat, but there is no hot water. So we'll stick to our warm cockpit showers! There is supposed to be good hikes including one through Steinbeck Canyon, which is the area Steinbeck wrote about in his book 'Log of the Sea of Cortez'. We'll also rent a car and head over to Lorato for a day visit.
March 6; Los Gatos to Agua Verde
Woke to overcast skies but comfortable temps. By the time I had my tea brewed all but one boat had pulled anchor. Chatted with Jeff and Harmony on Serenity as they fished for their dinner. Young couple enjoying Cortez before heading south to El Salvadore. After breakfast we pulled anchor and headed up to Agua Verde. What a great day- not far out of Gatos we saw several whales. Motored to where we thought they were headed and cut the engine. We were all alone on top of the sea with no wind. Nothing could be heard but the blow of whales. Massive blows. At one point we were in the middle of a triangle of them-although none 'close' to the boat. It was so cool. We were sure they were 'Blues' because of their size and dive sequence. All were grey in color and we could tell they were of the Rorqual family. I barely caught a picture and that ONE was not great, but magnified we could see that it had a slight hook to the small fin located far down on the back. This slight hook made us think it was either, Fin, Sei or Byrde (but not Mink because there was no white.) But another set of pictures looks like we did see some Blues. You decide (once we get the pics up.)
The magnificence of the Sierra de la Gigantas mountains is well...magnificent. The layers of colors, the size...truly a site. I told Ed that I thought this must have been what it was like when the Grand Canyon was full of water! Except of course only on one side ;).
Agua Verde is a beautiful spot. Unfortunately the overcast skies didn't allow for the turquoise of the water to come through. As soon as we anchored we donned our wetsuits and took a dive (yes, the water is still very chilly.) Ed purchased a pole spear before we left La Paz and he decided to try it out. At this point the fish have nothing to worry about.
March 5; Timbabiche & Los Gatos
Rose early to leave the channel in calm seas. Headed to Timbabiche in Bahia San Carlos. Very mild breeze leaving the channel - just enough to keep it cool, then flat calm and it warmed up quickly. The dolphins were back swimming with the boat. Such a site to watch them under water at the bow. Saw one manta jump...the three we've seen over the last two days have done two consecutive flips out of the water and then we don't see them again. Almost like they were sleeping then startled awake. Odd. Reached Timbabiche, anchored and checked out Casa Grande; a ruin now, and like walking onto an old Eastwood movie set. It is told that the original owner, a boatless fisherman, found and sold a 5 caret pearl. That pearl financed the building of the house and a fishing fleet. After his death, his heirs didn't know what to do with it so they just left it. I can just imagine how grand it was in its day.
Back to the boat and a couple of sea lions having a romp; jumping in and out of the water. Raised the anchor and headed a couple miles north to Puerto los Gatos. A bay with beautifully red colored rock bluffs. We anchored, put up the sun shade, had a little snack, watched 4 more boats come into anchor and, right before a nap, some pangaroos came by and asked if we wanted to buy some fish. Instead of buying we traded them a steak and three beers for two fish. Good size orange ones; have no idea what they were. Afterward we headed in for a hike up the bluffs. Every time we head in for a hike on similar rocks, Ed's reminded of the original Planet of the Apes and in most cases I agree. Absolutely beautiful looking out into the sea over to Santa Cruz, San Diego and Santa Catalina islands from the top of the mountain. Right before coming down we heard then saw a whale. To dark and far away for pictures, but a great site none the less. Back at the boat Ed grilled up the fish. I thought they were horrid. Ed didn't mind them and ate both (with a lot of Johnnys and lime.) Live and learn.
March 4; San Jose Channel
Happy Birthday Salvatore! Hope it was a great day for you.
Woke to a gorgeous morning. Waters so clear we could see our anchor. Had our cuppas and raised the hook. There was just enough wind for us to do some sailing during the crossing; 3 knots, which finally died back to nothing. Slow but beautiful. Had a visit from a group of dolphins, which we haven't seen since Los Mueartos and saw two giant manta rays do back flips. What an awesome site and just so random.
Flat calm and burning heat for most of the day. Rigged up a sun shade over the cockpit and I'm sure we looked like hippies on the loose. Hit the channel and caught a current which gave us more speed. At about 3:15 mid channel we hit a north wind at our nose with a little chop; although nothing like when we were here last, it still amazes me how quickly the winds come up. Anchored at Mangle Solo point with the wind dying by dinner. This would have been a fun place to investigate; having a forest of Cardon cactus, but the channel can churn, so we'll move on at first light. A very quiet calm night.
March 3; Isle Partida
We said goodbye to many friends on the dock in La Paz Marina Palmira this morning, fueled up and headed out. Finally have a weather window that allows us to go north. Many boaters must have had the same idea because it looked as though we were leading a parade leaving the harbor. We saw more boats on the water today then we have in all our months here. Unfortunately, a window weather to go north down here is similar to the San Juans in the summer, very little or no winds. So we motored to one of our favorite places, Ensenada Grande on Isle Partida. Because there wasn't wind, we had our first real visit with bobos too; pesky little nat like insects. Dinner, a bit of star gazing and a quick read before bed.
Good to see an update . . . thought you were headed home (north) - map shows your headed north from where you were. My last post had to be confusing for you. Hope you are well. Talk to you soon. ((hugs))
ReplyDelete