Tracey's last night

Saturday was the last day/night on the boat for me.  We spent the day relaxing with a little swimming & snorkeling boat side, an early evening grill of steak and veggies and then to town for a shower, ice cream dessert & walk.

On our return to the boat, dingying out of the harbor, we encounter two or three spotted eagle rays!  They were magnificent! We could have watched them forever.  Unfortunately because the sun was already down, they were hard to see unless they were really close to the dingy, which they were - twice!  Heading out to the boat, we were flagged down by friends on Wandering Dolphin.  A family of five living & traveling on their boat for many years.  We met them in Hilo Bay after their crossing from Costa Rica.  They were joined there by two more friends who are sailing with them for as long as Chris & Rebecca with have them...a lovely end to a lovely stay.

I know that all are with me in wishing Ed the fairest of winds and following seas for this leg of his journey.  We'll be waiting for him on the other end which he says should be about 30 days - give or take.  You know what this means...no more pics!

Happy anniversary babe...glad our little world is still spinning.

Fleetwoods on Front St.

Friday started out sunny and became overcast.  It honestly was enjoyable because it kept it cooler with a nice breeze.  It is really hot in the open sun here.  (Fun Fact:  Lahaina means 'cruel sun')

Hand laundered several of Eds shirts so he'll have a clean start to his next leg.  While those dried, I put on the kettle to steam out the wrinkles in our 'good' clothes for dinner in town.  Afterwards we just relaxed on the boat.

Headed in for showers prior to dinner.  Now you would think that a yacht club has fine facilities for such things, but you'd be wrong.  Although I must admit, its nice that the showers are clean with as much cold or hot water as you choose (in Mexico, you had no choice.)  The problem?  As soon as one dries off, one is wet again because of the humidity.  They're only enclosed by a slated door.  Any primping must be down around the corner in a toilet that has no outlets for hair dryers (even though they are rarely, if ever, used by sail boaters) and no fans to keep cool enough to want to primp.

As mentioned in a previous entry, Fleetwoods on Front St. is a restaurant owned by Mick Fleetwood of Fleetwood Mac.  The indoor area looks like a very large, very clean and cool pub.  Dark rich wood, photographs (of he, his family and famous friends) tables and chairs, stylin lighting and a couch or two thrown in.  We ate upstairs on the balcony.  Dinner started with a sunset ceremony.  Mick Fleetwood is Scottish and very proud of that heritage.  So the ceremony started with a bagpiper, his music and a tale of the long standing legacy between the Scotts and Hawaiians.  Afterward a blessing, reminder of what 'aloha' really means, and the fire lighting from the Kahuna.

Hawaiian State Flag

Ed had the chicken curry and I had the gnocchi&pear with goat cheese sauce and prosciutto...yum.

After dinner we moved to the 'couch' to watch the band, which was great.  We closed it down!...the band stops at 9:30 ;)

Tomorrows Forecast:

Warm with occasional beers...

Lahaina

After a very rocky, rolly afternoon through evening with sustained wind gusts of up to 30 knots at Palauea Beach (just after we finished snorkeling and finished the blog,) we finally got some sleep around 9pm.  Ed had been up for the better part of 36 hours.
The next morning we had our breakfast and I wanted to get going to Lahaina immediately as not to fight the afternoon trades.  We got off about 10am and about 30 minutes into the sail we noticed the white caps picking up.  A few minutes later we were in a white knuckle ride across the bay.  We ran the boat at 7.5/8 knots with the main reefed.  If you know us and our boat - 4.5/5 knots is our general speed.  Felt like we were Volvo Ocean Racing.  Consequently it was a quick crossing of Ma'alaea Bay and once behind the mountains, we were sailing at lovely 4 knots.

We've tied up to a Lahaina Yacht Club buoy, paying next to nothing compared with home; about $5 a day.  Ed is just shocked.  I told him it's probably because they rarely get sailboats in here!  Meanwhile we're temporary yacht club members with all the privileges.  So Ed says when we're in the club my name is 'Lovey'.   Received a call from the kids saying they could see us from the live web cam here so no nudity allowed on deck!  The water at our tie up is crystal clear and a beautiful blue.  In the morning you can see the smallest pebble in the sand 30 feet deep.  Our first night in we ate at the club.

Day 2 we made our reservations at Fleetwoods (courtesy of son Edward - THANK YOU!!)  A new restaurant owned by Mick Fleetwood of Fleetwood Mac. Beautiful place.  We're doing the sunset dinner on the balcony-but the inside area is gorgeous too.

Headed to Whalers Village, via public transport, and Black Rock for some fun in the sun.  Swimming, snorkeling and watching the young people jump off the black rock.  A full day with our own sunset dinner on the boat.

 

Goodbye Hilo, Hello Maui

After checking the wind at 6a.m. on Saturday and seeing there wasn't any, we decided to head to leave Hilo.  Better no wind then the stuff we had on Friday.  The forecasts were either showing small craft advisories or no wind.  We figured no wind was better.  Motor sailed for most of the Big Island. Not much wind to speak of most of the day.  Rich green coastline.  Just before the jump-off  point we were doing 5 knots without the motor and with one reef.  Making better time then calculated, Ed reefed again so we wouldn't make it to Maui too early as to not see what we were doing.  (Reefing is making the main sail smaller.)

It was a good crossing, but I don't like over-nighters.  One sailor asked what I was so afraid of and I explained it is the same thing I'm afraid of during the day only I can't see it coming.  I was always the kid that had the blankets pulled just up to my eyes, not covering them!  So I go down below and try to sleep.  Only this go around sleep was only available in about 20/30 minute spurts.  Its like a tin can down there underway.  Everything sounds like it's either breaking or about to break.  I'd get into a rhythm with the waves then suddenly get hit with this odd side wave that like backing a car into a brick wall.  The upside is we had clear skies all the way.  The stars lit up the night so beautifully and brightly that we could actually make out the land masses and clouds.  Thousands. The break of dawn came at 4:30 and we watched the sun rise.  Superb.  The smell of dry, warm land is something you never forget.

First thing we did is motor straight to Molokini Crater for a 7am snorkel.  We had a short snorkel and then  headed to Palauea Beach where the turtles like to hang out (near what used to be called Turtle Bay.)  And right after anchoring a nice size turtle swam by to say hello.  We snorkeled for about an hour or so, sat on the beach and back to the boat for 'beer:thirty."  After finishing our beers I happened to look at the clock and it was only 10:30 in the morning!  Amazing what you can get accomplished when you are up before dawn.  Its time for siestas now.  Probably 'til dinner!  Enjoy the pics.

Wind waiting...

I know I said in the last post that regardless we'd leave today, Friday, but I lied.  After reviewing the wind observations (on deck & on-line,) we would have been bashing into the wind and waves about 75% of the trip.  Who wants to do that?  Neither of us.  So we're going to try again tomorrow.  A hike into town for some garlic shrimp and steak took our minds off it.

The waiting game....

Last couple of days has been spent walking into town and picking up those last bits-odds and ends.  We've been waiting for the winds to die down through the channel; between the islands.  Predictions have been at 20-25knts and waves reaching 12ft.  The latter of which, I am not sure I am ready for again...
Regardless we plan to take off around noon on Friday, putting us at the Big Islands northern point around midnight.  Hopefully winds will have tapered off enough to make the 26 mile crossing to Maui's west side.  If not, we'll continue north on Maui's east side up to her midsection at Kahului Bay.

To shore or showers

Ed would like to leave the islands by the first of July.  Giving himself plenty of time to get back home (no Jerry, I will not crew this leg either.)  He may have to go well out of his way to chase the trades.  So Maui may be our last stop.

Cruise ship neighbors every Tuesday

Fun in the tide pool

Yes I'm hot but....

Native neighbors!

Hilo Japanese Gardens

After a very peaceful and relaxing Father's Day of pan flute,

reading and turtle watching, today we hoofed it into town a few miles and spent most of the day hanging out at the Hilo Japanese Garden.  The garden is on Hilo Bay, so its waters rise and fall with the tides.  Very simple, but so beautiful.  We have notice mongoose everywhere we go - so many.  Today was beautiful - very warm in the sun (making it a little too warm to be walking the volcanic sidewalks for miles,) cool in the shade and thank goodness for the breeze.  A quick stop at Coconut Island, a very small island park where kids go to swim and sun, gave us an opportunity to watch the fun in a small cove.

Late lunch at Ed's new favorite place The Hilo Burger Joint.  Actually happy hour is his favorite part of the place.  1/2 price beers; $3.  Caprese burger; basil leaves, fresh mozzarella, tomato and balsamic...yuummm.  A bus ride home will end this day with an early bed time. ;)